Controller Trigger Test
Squeeze LT/RT (or L2/R2) and watch the travel bars fill from 0.00 to 1.00. Everything runs in your browser — nothing is uploaded.
Connect a controller and press any button
Plug in (or pair) an Xbox, PlayStation, Switch Pro, or generic USB/Bluetooth gamepad, then press any button so your browser can see it. Some browsers only reveal a controller after the first input.
Triggers
What a healthy trigger looks like
Unlike face buttons, the shoulder triggers on a modern controller are analog: they report how far they've travelled as a number between 0.00 fully released and 1.00 fully squeezed. Squeeze slowly and watch the bar. It should climb smoothly across the whole range, reach a solid 1.00 at the stop, and fall straight back to 0.00 the instant you let go. Three things go wrong, and all three are visible here.
A trigger that never reaches 1.00 has lost travel — usually a worn Hall-effect magnet or potentiometer, sometimes debris under the paddle — and in a racing game that means you can no longer apply full throttle. A trigger that rests above 0.00 is the trigger equivalent of stick drift: your car creeps, or your weapon fires on its own, because the game sees constant partial input. A trigger that jumps in steps rather than sweeping smoothly has a failing sensor, and will feel notchy in anything that maps trigger travel to speed.
If this page reports that your controller exposes no analog triggers, your browser has it in a non-standard mapping, or the pad genuinely has digital shoulder buttons — several third-party and retro-style controllers do. In that case the shoulder buttons still show up as simple on/off cells in the button test.
Next: run the controller button test for the digital buttons, or the stick drift test for the thumbsticks.
